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Thursday, January 13, 2005
Taking Stock A couple weeks ago I was doing a little grocery shopping. Now, it bears mentioning that I’m fairly talented in the kitchen, although cooking for one is certainly not the easiest thing in the world to do creatively. I bought more meat than usual. Normally, I’m loading up on frozen pizzas, some pasta, and choosing some more ready-to-cook type entrees to make it easy on myself on weeknights. That day was a little different. I bought beef, chicken, pork, and veal – of which I have only eaten the veal (breaded/fried cutlets, and damn were they good). I make mention of this because when I’m looking at a three quarter pound package of veal cutlets, I’m not just flipping through a mental rolodex of recipes. I’m going through my kitchen inventory, wandering through the produce aisle, dreaming up a marinade, and wondering if there’s something that I’d like to try to do with these beautifully pink and tender cuts of calf that maybe I haven’t thought of yet. Maybe I don’t always execute the complex game plans I’m formulating in my head, but I’m thankful that even though I might not be keeping my culinary skills on the path they were a few years ago, that side of my creativity hasn’t wandered out of my grasp as of yet. That being said, I feel like I need to trot out my skills and actually try something new. I’ve got that charity auction rapidly approaching, and as I will be needing to impress to some extent with my creativity, I think I need to rehearse a little bit. I’ve been back to the store a couple times since that trip, and each time I’ve visited I’ve found myself in the meat case staring at veal shanks and bones in various sizes, all perfect for veal stock. I’m evaluating the bones and imagining a velvety gorgonzola laced veal sauce over gnocchi with some perfectly tender chunks of veal on top. I’m envisioning sort of an Italian barbecue thing with a red wine and chili veal sauce tossed with pulled veal off shank on crostini. I can almost taste a well-executed simple risotto with a finely crafted stock providing the flavor. Maybe a veal bisque. Stock is the foundation, the jump off to all these different avenues of exploration. There’s something deceptively complex behind building a great stock. It’s not simply bones and water, it’s not just adding root vegetables, it’s not about bouquet garni carefully bundled and in measured amounts. The key to any great stock is time. It’s all those things above to be certain, but (and don’t bother excusing the pun) it all boils down to time. A rushed stock makes for an average risotto. A well crafted stock can make that same Arborio transcendent. I understand this in the kitchen. Few things bring me more joy than spending eight straight hours at the chopping board and over the burners creating something delicious for that night’s dinner. In the kitchen, the higher quality your foundation, the more impressive your end product. And great stock takes time. Another blogger said to me recently, “I gloss through a lot of blogs, but I READ yours every day.” That was flattering. I know what it is I’m doing here, and it absolutely satisfies a creative jones that I’m not going to let wither away. But, and I’ve mentioned this before, I’ve got this nagging feeling that I’m not really writing the way I want to be writing right now. When I told Otis this weekend that “I feel like I’m all over the place,” I don’t really mean that in a literal, subject matter sense. What I mean is that I often re-read what it is I’ve just typed up, and I’m not hearing what I want to hear. I’m not saying “I suck,” but when I read something that is focused, I hear it. It breathes. It communicates. It has a singular voice. I know I get there from time to time, maybe even more often than I give myself credit for. The feeling I have, however, is that I have something to say and that I just haven’t figured out how to say it yet. And you’d think after nearly three quarters of a million words (how staggering is that to think about?), I’d have it nailed. Actually, rephrase that. “I’d think” after nearly three quarters of a million words, I’d have it nailed. It was about 1AM on Friday night when Otis, Al, Eva, and I ended up back at the bar in the casino. I expressed this, maybe not as articulately as I did above, to Otis. I think he understood what I meant. And what he told me – about years of writing in composition books, then weekly emails to his friends, and finally in the framework of a blog – helped me take stock with a little more comfort. It took him awhile to get to where he wanted to get with his writing. And it’s probably going to take me awhile too. Which gets me back to veal bones, root vegetables, and bouquet garni. I’m learning that it’s the foundation that matters. I may feel inconsistent and unfocused at times, but what I’m doing in this space on a near-daily basis is allowing myself the time to build that stock and boil it down to something concise but delicious in its simplicity. Once I’m happy with what I’ve made? Then I just have to figure out what to do with it from there.
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